Remanufacturing the
Samsung ML-1750 Toner Cartridge
DOC-0332
First released in March 2003, Samsung ML-1710
and ML-1750 Printers are based on one of Samsung’s newest engines.
The ML-1750 series runs at 17 ppm with a maximum resolution of 1200
dpi.
These cartridges are very similar to the SCX-4216, but there are differences.
The main difference is that the SCX 4216 cartridge has a fuse to reset
the printer. The ML-1710/1750 does not. There is a spot for the fuse
on the ML-1750, but it is not used. There are also some cosmetic differences.
Figures 1 & 2 show the differences between the two.
These cartridges do not have a drum cover, and come new with a piece
of heavy paper taped around the cartridge. (See Figure 3) All new cartridges
opened so far have shown some toner leakage on the drum that would have
shown on any prints.
The standard cartridge (Samsung part# ML-1750D3/XAA) comes new with
90g toner, and is rated for 3,000 pages at 5% coverage. If you look
at the cartridge, it appears that Samsung has discovered our industry,
the top of the cartridge is embossed with Samsung all over it. Samsung
cartridges also all now come with a card that states the cartridge is
a genuine Samsung. This card also gives the Model #, Serial #, and Production
date. See Figure’s 4 & 5
FIGURE 5
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90g Toner
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Conductive Grease
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Drum lubricating powder
- Place the cartridge with the handle facing up. Remove the 5 top
cover screws. See Figure 6
- On the front edge of the cartridge, there are two tabs. Press these
two tabs in, and lift the front edge of the cover up. See Figure 7
- Next to the handle of the cartridge to the right and left, there
are 2 more plastic tabs. GENTLY press them in, and remove the cover.
See Figure 8
CAUTION: The upper half of the toner hopper is
being removed. If there is a lot of toner left in the hopper, it
can dump out all over! Vacuum the hopper clean.
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With the toner hopper away from you, remove the three screws on
the left side end cap. Remove the end cap. See Figure 9
- Remove the three screws on the right side end cap. Remove
the end cap. See Figure’s 10 & 11
- Also on the right side there is a series of gears under the end
cap. Make a note of the location of each gear, and remove them. See
Figure’s 12 & 13
- Remove the PCR. See Figure 14
- Clean the PCR with your normal PCR cleaner.
WARNING: Do not clean the OEM PCR with alcohol,
as this will remove the conductive coating from the roller. If the
PCR is an aftermarket, follow the cleaning methods recommended by
the manufacturer. If the PCR is an OEM, we recommend it be cleaned
with your standard PCR cleaner.
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There are 2 screws on the PCR cleaner Assy. Remove them and gently
pry the blade up. Note that there are not any alignment tabs or
posts to worry about. This PCR cleaner also has what can be considered
a wiper blade. It is a very flimsy blade attached to the metal bar.
Wipe this blade down with a clean lint free cloth before re-installing.
See Figures 15 & 16
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It is very important that the PCR cleaner be cleaned. Vacuum or
blow off any residual toner from the foam/felt.
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With the PCR Cleaner Assembly removed, the drum can easily be
removed by lifting it out. See Figure 17
- Clean out any remaining toner from the cartridge.
- Press in on the bottom tab of the Developer roller plate (Right
Side) to release it. See Figure 18
- With a small common screwdriver, press the entire plate towards
the edge of the developer roller cavity, and lift up. There is a tab
on the top of the plate that has to be released. The Plate should
come loose. See Figure 19
- Gently pry out the roller plate from the cartridge. The foam seal,
and plastic flat washer will come out with it. Be careful not to damage
the foam seal, or loose the flat washer. See Figure 20
- Remove the Developer Roller. Be careful not to damage or lose the
flat washers on the roller. See Figure 21
- It is highly recommended that the Doctor Blade be cleaned. Failure
to do so will cause streaking. The Doctor Blade can be cleaned with
out removing it. Dampen a cotton swab with alcohol, and clean the
blade. Be careful not to press too hard and damage the blade. If the
blade has a heavy buildup of toner on it, clean it with Acetone, and
then alcohol. Removing the blade is difficult because of the foam
seals attached. If the seals are torn, the cartridge will leak. That
is why we do not recommend it. Once replacement Dr. Blades are available,
they will have to come with replacement foam. See Figure 22
- Replace the Developer roller, and flat washers. See Figure 23
- If no grease is left on the gears and gear shafts, or it is contaminated
with toner clean it all off. Replace it with white lithium grease.
Be sure to clean and grease the gear shafts, and inside the gear.
See Figure 24
- Replace the roller plate and 5 gears. When installing the plate,
do the opposite of how it came out. Keep it towards the front edge
so that the small tab on top fits behind the wall of the cartridge.
Look carefully at the picture of the gears. Each gear must fit in
this exact way. The gears labeled in order of installation. See Figure
25
FIGURE 22 |
FIGURE 23 |
FIGURE 24 |
FIGURE 25 |
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Install the new drum in place.
See Figure 26
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Install the PCR cleaner Assy. and two screws. See Figure 27
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Clean the conductive grease off the left side (Non Gear) end cap
and replace with fresh grease. Replace the end cap and three screws.
See Figure 28
- Install the PCR. Make sure that the PCR gear is on the correct
side and that the shaft is in the PCR holder. See Figure 29
- Install the right side end cap, and screws. Make sure the PCR fits
correctly in its holder, and all the gears are aligned. See Figure
30
- Fill the hopper with 90g of toner. See Figure 31
- This can also be done through the fill plug, but the fill plug tends
to leak and will probably have to be sealed with silicon.
- Carefully snap the cover on making sure all the tabs lock in place.
See Figure’s 32 & 33
- Install the five screws in the top cover. See Figure 34
All the printer settings are changed through the printer driver properties.
The Graphics tab has the resolution settings, as well as the toner save
function. From this same tab, if you click on Advanced Options, you
now have access to the Darkness settings.
Even Light Prints: Check to see if the Toner Save
feature has been enabled. The Toner Save light will be on. This is accessed
from the printer driver properties. (See “Printer Settings”
above).
A Dirty or Bad Primary Charge Roller (PCR); located
Inside the cartridge, this will show on the test print as vertical gray
streaks down the page, as a gray background throughout the page, as
ghosting where part of a previously printed area is repeated, or as
a mark that repeats every 40mm.
Dirty PCR Connection; This will show as horizontal
dark black bars across the page, or as shading throughout the page.
Scratched Drum; This is shown by a very thin, perfectly
straight line that runs from the top to the bottom of the test page.
Chipped Drum; This will show as a dot or series of
dots that repeat every 78mm.
Light Damaged Drum; This will show up as a shaded
area on the test print that should be white. Again this will repeat
every 78mm.
Bad Wiper Blade; This will show as either a gray line
approximately 1/8" thick, or as shading across the entire page.
In either case there will be a film of toner on the drum surface.
Bad Developer Roller; This will show up as light print
or as a mark that repeats every 45mm
These machines do not have a display panel. They use a series of LED’s
to indicate a problem. There are two lights on the control panel, the
ONLINE/ERROR, and the TONER SAVE lights. The Online light is a two color
LED, Red and Green.
The user manual for these machines only has very basic information
listed as follows:
If both lights are blinking, the machine has problems and needs service.
(Helpful isn’t it!)
If the Online light is on steady red, and the toner save light is off,
there could be a number of problems. Either there is a paper jam, the
front cover is open, or the toner cartridge is empty.
If the Online light is on blinking Green, and the toner save light
is off, there could also be a number of problems/reasons. If the printer
is receiving data, the Online/Error LED will blink slowly. If the printer
is printing, the Online/ Error LED will blink fast. The Online/ Error
LED will also blink if it is in the manual feed mode, and no paper is
in the manual feeder, or if the “Cancel” button was pressed
while the printer was receiving data.
© 2003 Summit Laser Products, Inc. Any attempt to reproduce any part of
these instructions without the written consent of Summit Laser Products, Inc is
prohibited. All registered trademarks are the property of their respective
owners.
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