Samsung ML-6000 Toner Cartridges
DOC-0308
First introduced in November 1998, the Samsung ML-6000
engine is a 12ppm, 1200 dpi engine. The various models listed below all use the
same supplies to recycle, however the cartridges are not interchangeable. The
standard cartridge comes new with 190g. toner, and is rated for 6,000 pages at
5% coverage. As of November 15th 2002 both the Xerox and Samsung
cartridges list for $149.00ea
Samsung seems to have different part numbers for the
same cartridges. The ML+6000D6 and TD-66K are the same 6000 page
cartridge. ML+6000D5 and the TD-65K are the same but are rated at 5000
pages. From what I can determine, the 5000 page cartridges have been replaced by
the 6000 page cartridges. Some of the worldwide Samsung web sites have not been
updated and still list these cartridges, so they may still have them in stock.
All the cartridges can be made the higher yield, by adding the correct amount of
toner (190g). There is also a possibility that there is another cartridge, the
ML+6000D3 rated at 3,000 pages. I have not been able to confirm that this
is a valid part number or that this 3000 page cartridge actually exists.
The main cartridges in use today are as follows:
The Samsung part # is ML+6000D6 or TD-66K
The Xerox part # is 106R00398
The machines based on this engine are the:
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Samsung ML-6000
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Samsung ML-6050
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Samsung ML-6100
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Samsung ML-6100N
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Samsung QL-6000
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Samsung QL-6050
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Samsung QL-6100
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Xerox Docuprint P1202
As with other newer Samsung cartridges there is no wiper
blade or waste chamber. The cartridge is listed as having a 100% transfer
efficiency. As far as Samsung cartridges go, this one is fairly straightforward.
It does however have a secondary roller under the PCR. The reason for this
roller is not listed in any Samsung literature that I could find. The second
roller is smaller in diameter than the PCR and has it’s own separate electrical
contact. While researching this I came across a rather vague patent from Samsung
where they were trying to address ghosting when printing in a low humidity
environment. My guess is that this roller is there to help with that issue. In
the Samsung service manual for this printer there is no mention of this, but
there is a separate “cleaning board” listed in the wiring diagrams that is
controlled by the main controller. In the user guides there is also an “OPC
Cleaning Page” procedure that may use this roller as well.
Printer usage, as well as some common printer/cartridge
problems will be covered at the end of this article.
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Place the cartridge with the toner hopper facing up
and away from you. This will orient the cartridge for right and left sides.
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Tape the drum cover open so that it is back under the
back large tab. See Figure 1
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Remove the top 2 screws. See Figure 2
FIGURE 1 |
FIGURE 2 |
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On the front of the cartridge there are 3 hidden plastic
tabs with small slots above them. GENTLY pry them loose by inserting a small
common screwdriver and twisting until the tabs pops loose. See Figure 3
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On the back of the cartridge there are three more
plastic tabs. GENTLY pry these loose also, and remove the top of the cartridge.
See Figure 4
FIGURE 3 |
FIGURE 4 |
CAUTION: The entire upper half of the toner
hopper is being removed. If there is a lot of toner left in the hopper, it will
dump out all over! Vacuum the hopper clean. See Figure 5
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Remove the three screws on the left side end cap (Non
contact side) Remove the end cap. See Figure 6
FIGURE 5 |
FIGURE 6 |
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Remove the two screws on the PCR assembly. Remove the
entire Assy. See Figure 7
Note that there are actually two rollers in this assy.
The top is the PCR, the second we believe is a secondary PCR for drum cleaning
and printing in low humidity conditions. See text at the beginning of this
article for more information. See Figure 8
FIGURE 7 |
FIGURE 8 |
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Clean both the PCR’s.
WARNING: Do not clean either of the OEM PCR’s
with alcohol, as this will remove the conductive coating on the rollers. We
recommended they be cleaned with your standard PCR cleaner
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Carefully pry up the two metal contacts on the right
side. Be very careful not to damage the small plastic pins that the contacts
lock on to. See Figure 9
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Remove the three screws on the right side end cap.
Remove the end cap. See Figure 10
FIGURE 9 |
FIGURE 10 |
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Note the location of the gears on the right side. Remove
the two large white gears. The metal shaft may come loose with the gears as they
are removed (or stay on the end cap). Be very careful not to lose it! See Figure
11
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Note the remaining two gears, remove the white gear, and
the black bushing from the developer roller shaft. Leave the black gear in place
for now. See Figures 12 & 13
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Remove the PCR Assy. contact plate from the side of the
cartridge, remove the drum. Make sure the contact plate is removed or it will
damage the drum as it is removed! See Figures 14 & 15
If the drum is in good shape and you plan to re-use it, blow off any remaining
dust from the Drum using compressed clean air. If there is any matter on the
drum that must be cleaned off, use 99% pure Isopropyl alcohol and a soft lint
free cotton pad to lightly wipe the drum surface, then blow off the Drum using
compressed clean air.
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Place the OPC Drum in a soft lint-free cloth and
then into a dark colored bag or cover from bright light by some other suitable
means. Again, do not rub or wipe the OPC Drum with a dry cloth as this may
scratch its surface.
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To clean the doctor blade (Highly recommended), the
developer roller must be removed. Failure to clean this blade will lead to
vertical streaking. To remove the developer roller, first remove the remaining
black (developer Roller) gear from the developer roller shaft. See Figure 16
FIGURE 11 |
FIGURE 12 |
FIGURE 13 |
FIGURE 14 |
FIGURE 15 |
FIGURE 16 |
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In the bottom center of the gear box you will see a
small rectangular hole with a clip in it. Press the clip in and remove the
plastic/foam end cap. The developer roller can now be removed. Clean the roller
with a clean dry cloth. Do not use any chemicals on this roller. Vacuum the foam
toner feed roller and hopper clean. See Figures 17 & 18
FIGURE 17 |
FIGURE 18 |
NOTE: The static roller has two spacers/washers
made of Teflon. Be careful not to damage the spacers as they will allow leakage
if not installed. See Figure 19
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Clean the Doctor blade with a foam Q-Tip and Acetone,
followed by 99% pure alcohol. The alcohol will remove any Acetone residue; the
Acetone is an extremely good cleaner for metal blades. See Figure 20
FIGURE 19 |
FIGURE 20 |
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Replace the developer roller, clip, black gear, and
bushing. In that order Make sure that the developer roller clip is snapped in
place. See Figures 21 & 22
FIGURE 21 |
FIGURE 22 |
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Install the remaining gears, except for the white
mid-sized gear that fits next to the drum. Make sure that the gears are
positioned as in the picture. It is very easy to install the double gears
backwards! See Figure 23
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Install the drum. See Figure 24
FIGURE 23 |
FIGURE 24 |
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Install the white gear and PCR contact. See Figures
25 & 26.
FIGURE 25 |
FIGURE 26 |
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Install the right (gear side) end cap and three screws.
See Figure 27
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Install the two metal contact strips on the right side
end cap. Make sure they lock into place. See Figure 28
FIGURE 27 |
FIGURE 28 |
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Install the left side end cap and three screws. See
Figure 29
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Install the cleaned PCR assembly and two screws. Make
sure that the contacts on both sides are in their proper place, and not bent, or
damaged. See Figure 30
FIGURE 29 |
FIGURE 30 |
The next few steps all depend on if a seal is to be installed or not. If using a
seal, follow steps 26-30. If no seal is to be used, follow steps 31-30
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If your are using a seal, the fill plug must be removed.
This is actually best done by pressing the plug out from the inside. This way
the plug will not become damaged. (The person doing this must have small
fingers!) To remove the plug from the outside, use a small jewelers screwdriver,
and pry it out.
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New dedicated seals are not currently available, but an
AX seal will work. It should be noted however that the seal frame will block
some toner from flowing. This does not seem to be a problem in our testing
because the mixing blades inside the hopper are very efficient. To install a
seal, Place the frame centered over the opening so that the pull strip is
hanging over the gears. Pull the backing and install the seal. See Figure 31
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Once the seal is installed, pour in the toner, and
replace the fill plug. See Figure 32
FIGURE 31 |
FIGURE 32 |
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Turn the hopper over. Make sure there are no leaks, and
that the drum cover is still taped to the back of the hopper. Slide the pull-tab
of the seal through the slot in the base of the toner feeder section. See Figure
33
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Install the toner hopper onto the rest of the cartridge.
Make sure that the gears on the right side fit into their slots. Snap the hopper
down so that all the tabs snap into place (Three front, three back). See Figure
34
Proceed to Step 33
FIGURE 33 |
FIGURE 34 |
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If a seal is not installed, make sure the fill plug
is installed, and fill the hopper from the seal opening. See Figure 35
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Since no seal is present, the drum/feeder section must
be installed onto the toner hopper. Install the drum/feeder section onto the
hopper. Make sure that the gears on the right side fit into their slots. Snap
the hopper down so that all the tabs snap into place (Three front, three back)
See Figure 36
FIGURE 35 |
FIGURE 36 |
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Install the top two screws. See Figure 37
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Release the drum cover. Make sure it is operating
properly (bar spring stays in place). See Figure 38
FIGURE 37 |
FIGURE 38 |
Vertical streaks: This is normally caused by a
dirty doctor blade. It is highly recommended that this blade be cleaned every
cycle. See step 17 for more information.
Dirty or Bad Primary Charge Roller(s), (PCR);
This cartridge actually has two PCR’s a Primary (normal), and a secondary
(smaller) that is probably used in low humidity situations. In theory, this
secondary PCR should correct any ghosting, but if not, the pair of them might
need to be cleaned and/or replaced. Small defects from the main PCR will repeat
every 37.7mm
Dirty PCR Connection; This will show as
horizontal dark black bars across the page, or as shading throughout the page.
Note that both PCR’s each have their own contact! The main is on the right,
secondary on the left.
Scratched Drum; this is shown by a very thin,
perfectly straight line that runs from the top to the bottom of the test page.
Chipped Drum; This will show as a dot or series
of dots that repeat 3 times per page or every 94.2mm. Any drum defects will
repeat 3 times per page (94.2mm).
Light Damaged Drum; This will show up as a
shaded area on the test print that should be white. Again this will repeat 3
times per page.
Tire Tracks; This is normally caused by a bad
drum. They normally show up on the right edge of the page.
To run the cleaning page, first make sure that the
READY light is on. Press and hold the control button until all three lights
remain lit, and the printer begins to cycle. Release the button. The printer
will run through a cleaning cycle, and a cleaning page will print.
To run a self test page, press and hold the control
button for approximately 3 seconds. (All lights flashing) A one page printer
status page will print out.
The printer driver when installed on a computer will
allow changes to the printer’s density, and two more test pages: a configuration
page, and a demo page.
For more sophisticated troubleshooting, Samsung
actually has a separate box that they call a DCU (Diagnostic Control Unit). This
unit gives what appears to be excellent information on the status of the
machine. I don’t know how accurate it is, but in theory, I like it!
For ease of use, we will number the lights 1-4. Refer
to this system when reading the error patterns.
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Light 1 = Error
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Light 2 = Manual Feed
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Light 3 = Paper
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Light 4 = Ready
Lights 1 & 3 ON
Paper jam
Lights 1-4 Blinking
System Error. Turn the printer
off and back on to see if it clears. (This is most commonly a fuser error)
Light 1 On
Printer cover open, or toner
cartridge not installed. This error does not have a light pattern, but has become
my all time favorite error listing. The service manual actually says this!
Error Code 3-090: Ear-Splitting Noise!
(This is the code for a bad motor or fan) I have seen
some strange translations over the years, but this is the best!
37.7mm |
Primary Charge Roller |
31.3mm |
Feed Roller |
94.2mm |
OPC Drum |
46mm |
Developer Roller |
69mm |
Upper AND Lower Fuser Rollers |
49mm |
Transfer Roller |
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